Secrets to Great Dog Health Care: Grooming Your Dog
Ethan Parker asked:
Wouldn’t you rather learn how to deal with minor dog health problems BEFORE they become major ones? I know I would, because let’s face it, dogs are part of your family, and no one wants to see a part of your family get sick or even die.
Even if you’ve got the most easy-care dog in the world, she’ll still need some attention to be paid to her appearance every once in a while – so it’s worth spending a bit of time learning the best techniques for easy, stress-free grooming.
Here is some of the valuable advice I got from one of my favorite sites for dog health care solutions, The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health.
WHY SHOULD I BOTHER GROOMING MY DOG?
Not so long ago, the average American’s approach to canine grooming was somewhat cavalier. Dogs were seen as something that lived in the yard (usually in a dusty, hard-floored kennel), ate whatever was put in their bowls, and existed as a sometime-playmate for the household’s children.
Today, we tend to care for our dogs a lot more, and view them more as members of the household than the Thing in the Yard.
Ever since this rise in the estimation of our beloved pooches became widespread, grooming has been increasingly recognized as an important facet of your dog’s regular health-care. It ensures that any skin-care problems are minimized (because grooming distributes the natural skin-oils evenly throughout the coat), and assists you in monitoring your dog’s overall condition – if you groom on a regular basis, you can’t help but notice the presence of any unusual lumps or bumps.
This preventative action has saved many a canine life. Our dogs can’t tell us where it hurts, but taking just a little bit of time every so often to check them over ourselves can save a lot of grief in the long run.
The trick is getting your dog to tolerate (and even enjoy!) the process …
THE FIRST STEP IN THE GROOMING PROCESS
Something that many owners lack experience in is how to wash their dogs. Dry-grooming (brushing and ‘buffing’ the coat) seems to present little problem for most people; the rot tends to set in when water is introduced to the mix.
Most dogs have a strong dislike of being bathed, and in many cases will become utterly panic-stricken when the tub comes out.
This article is going to deal with the basics of how to wash your dog in a way that’ll keep both of you relaxed and happy.
PREPARING YOUR DOG FOR GROOMING
First of all, the absolute most important thing you can do is to accustom your dog to the grooming process. Now, starting this in puppyhood is the ideal way to handle the situation, but of course not all of us have this luxury; if you’ve got an adult dog, you’ll probably need to move a little slower, but you should still start getting her used to being touched and handled all over as soon as you can.
As your puppy or dog gets used to the sensation of being rubbed and handled, she’ll slowly come to enjoy it. Dogs are social creatures by instinct, and physical affection and contact is a big part of their lives – it shouldn’t take long before she begins to trust you, and allows herself to get some pleasure out of your touch.
All you have to do is start rubbing her slowly all over. Fondle her ears, touch her cheeks and neck, rub her back and belly, pick up her paws and – if she’ll let you – give each one a gentle squeeze (treating and praising her whenever she lets you do this, since paw touching is generally a pretty big deal for most dogs). If she has a tail, rub it between your fingers; get her to roll over on her back so you can rub and stroke her belly and hocks.
This might not seem like such a big deal, but it’s actually a really important part of the grooming process: the more your dog enjoys it, the less stressful the whole event will be for both of you, and so the more often you’re likely to groom her – which increases the health benefits for her.
HOW TO WASH YOUR DOG
Bathing always comes before dry-grooming, since it makes brushing and trimming a lot easier as well as a lot more effective (there’s not much point in brushing a tangled, dirty coat!)
You will need some basic tools: a tub, a non-slip mat, a plastic jug, some warm water, a small sponge, and some canine shampoo (not human shampoo: the pH is all wrong for dogs, and will give her dry and flaky skin.)
Stand her in the tub, on the non-slip mat. If she’s a large or unruly dog, you may want to wash her outside to minimize mess – either that, or you can restrain her by tying one end of a light nylon leash to her collar, and the other end to the faucet.
Pour jugs of warm water all over her until she’s good and wet. This breaks down the grease in her fur, and ensures a thorough shampooing.
Mix a little shampoo with another jug of warm water, and rub it thoroughly into your dog’s fur. Start off with her back and rub it into a good lather (but don’t be too harsh!)
Now you can move on to her head and face. Be very careful here – dogs’ eyes are sensitive too, and if you get any water in her ears, she’ll probably get an ear infection. (You can plug her ears with a small twist of cotton wool to help stop this from happening, if you like.)
Remember to clean under her tail before you wash her off – dip the sponge into the shampoo mixture to do this properly.
Now it’s time to rinse: using the jug and some clean, warm, shampoo-free water, carefully tip it all over her and use your fingers to help disperse the lather from her coat. Rinse her off thoroughly at least twice, since any residue that remains will irritate her skin.
Now you’ll need to dry her off: if she’s got short fur, you can use a towel (an old one will do just fine, although big dogs generally need two); for dogs with longer fur, give her a gentle toweling-off first, and then use a hair dryer to get rid of the last dampness. Be certain that it’s set on low heat, and hold it far away from your dog’s fur to prevent burning either the skin or the fur.
KEEP YOURSELF CALM
Remember that most dogs have an inherent dislike of being bathed, which can cause anxiety and even outright panic.
Your dog takes a lot of her emotional cues from you, so make sure you act like a good role model for the occasion. Reassure your dog frequently, keeping your voice well-modulated, low, and even; keep your movements slow and deliberate; praise her lavishly for good behavior, and give her a couple of treats throughout the process to make it more enjoyable for her.
The more she enjoys the process, the easier it’ll be for you!
FOR MORE INFORMATION
Grooming your dog is just one tiny aspect of maintaining overall health and happiness. For a complete, encyclopedic survival guide to all aspects of dog health, from preventative care to choosing a vet to doggie First Aid (even the canine Heimlich maneuver!), you should take a look at The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health.
A survival guide for knowledgeable, effective, and life-saving dog care, this manual keeps your dog’s health and wellbeing firmly within your control – which is exactly where you want it to be.
It can’t hurt to look.
Wouldn’t you rather learn how to deal with minor dog health problems BEFORE they become major ones? I know I would, because let’s face it, dogs are part of your family, and no one wants to see a part of your family get sick or even die.
Even if you’ve got the most easy-care dog in the world, she’ll still need some attention to be paid to her appearance every once in a while – so it’s worth spending a bit of time learning the best techniques for easy, stress-free grooming.
Here is some of the valuable advice I got from one of my favorite sites for dog health care solutions, The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health.
WHY SHOULD I BOTHER GROOMING MY DOG?
Not so long ago, the average American’s approach to canine grooming was somewhat cavalier. Dogs were seen as something that lived in the yard (usually in a dusty, hard-floored kennel), ate whatever was put in their bowls, and existed as a sometime-playmate for the household’s children.
Today, we tend to care for our dogs a lot more, and view them more as members of the household than the Thing in the Yard.
Ever since this rise in the estimation of our beloved pooches became widespread, grooming has been increasingly recognized as an important facet of your dog’s regular health-care. It ensures that any skin-care problems are minimized (because grooming distributes the natural skin-oils evenly throughout the coat), and assists you in monitoring your dog’s overall condition – if you groom on a regular basis, you can’t help but notice the presence of any unusual lumps or bumps.
This preventative action has saved many a canine life. Our dogs can’t tell us where it hurts, but taking just a little bit of time every so often to check them over ourselves can save a lot of grief in the long run.
The trick is getting your dog to tolerate (and even enjoy!) the process …
THE FIRST STEP IN THE GROOMING PROCESS
Something that many owners lack experience in is how to wash their dogs. Dry-grooming (brushing and ‘buffing’ the coat) seems to present little problem for most people; the rot tends to set in when water is introduced to the mix.
Most dogs have a strong dislike of being bathed, and in many cases will become utterly panic-stricken when the tub comes out.
This article is going to deal with the basics of how to wash your dog in a way that’ll keep both of you relaxed and happy.
PREPARING YOUR DOG FOR GROOMING
First of all, the absolute most important thing you can do is to accustom your dog to the grooming process. Now, starting this in puppyhood is the ideal way to handle the situation, but of course not all of us have this luxury; if you’ve got an adult dog, you’ll probably need to move a little slower, but you should still start getting her used to being touched and handled all over as soon as you can.
As your puppy or dog gets used to the sensation of being rubbed and handled, she’ll slowly come to enjoy it. Dogs are social creatures by instinct, and physical affection and contact is a big part of their lives – it shouldn’t take long before she begins to trust you, and allows herself to get some pleasure out of your touch.
All you have to do is start rubbing her slowly all over. Fondle her ears, touch her cheeks and neck, rub her back and belly, pick up her paws and – if she’ll let you – give each one a gentle squeeze (treating and praising her whenever she lets you do this, since paw touching is generally a pretty big deal for most dogs). If she has a tail, rub it between your fingers; get her to roll over on her back so you can rub and stroke her belly and hocks.
This might not seem like such a big deal, but it’s actually a really important part of the grooming process: the more your dog enjoys it, the less stressful the whole event will be for both of you, and so the more often you’re likely to groom her – which increases the health benefits for her.
HOW TO WASH YOUR DOG
Bathing always comes before dry-grooming, since it makes brushing and trimming a lot easier as well as a lot more effective (there’s not much point in brushing a tangled, dirty coat!)
You will need some basic tools: a tub, a non-slip mat, a plastic jug, some warm water, a small sponge, and some canine shampoo (not human shampoo: the pH is all wrong for dogs, and will give her dry and flaky skin.)
Stand her in the tub, on the non-slip mat. If she’s a large or unruly dog, you may want to wash her outside to minimize mess – either that, or you can restrain her by tying one end of a light nylon leash to her collar, and the other end to the faucet.
Pour jugs of warm water all over her until she’s good and wet. This breaks down the grease in her fur, and ensures a thorough shampooing.
Mix a little shampoo with another jug of warm water, and rub it thoroughly into your dog’s fur. Start off with her back and rub it into a good lather (but don’t be too harsh!)
Now you can move on to her head and face. Be very careful here – dogs’ eyes are sensitive too, and if you get any water in her ears, she’ll probably get an ear infection. (You can plug her ears with a small twist of cotton wool to help stop this from happening, if you like.)
Remember to clean under her tail before you wash her off – dip the sponge into the shampoo mixture to do this properly.
Now it’s time to rinse: using the jug and some clean, warm, shampoo-free water, carefully tip it all over her and use your fingers to help disperse the lather from her coat. Rinse her off thoroughly at least twice, since any residue that remains will irritate her skin.
Now you’ll need to dry her off: if she’s got short fur, you can use a towel (an old one will do just fine, although big dogs generally need two); for dogs with longer fur, give her a gentle toweling-off first, and then use a hair dryer to get rid of the last dampness. Be certain that it’s set on low heat, and hold it far away from your dog’s fur to prevent burning either the skin or the fur.
KEEP YOURSELF CALM
Remember that most dogs have an inherent dislike of being bathed, which can cause anxiety and even outright panic.
Your dog takes a lot of her emotional cues from you, so make sure you act like a good role model for the occasion. Reassure your dog frequently, keeping your voice well-modulated, low, and even; keep your movements slow and deliberate; praise her lavishly for good behavior, and give her a couple of treats throughout the process to make it more enjoyable for her.
The more she enjoys the process, the easier it’ll be for you!
FOR MORE INFORMATION
Grooming your dog is just one tiny aspect of maintaining overall health and happiness. For a complete, encyclopedic survival guide to all aspects of dog health, from preventative care to choosing a vet to doggie First Aid (even the canine Heimlich maneuver!), you should take a look at The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health.
A survival guide for knowledgeable, effective, and life-saving dog care, this manual keeps your dog’s health and wellbeing firmly within your control – which is exactly where you want it to be.
It can’t hurt to look.
Do You Have A Cat That Is Constantly Afraid?
Judy Jantzen asked:
If you have a cat that is constantly afraid then you need to read the following very carefully.
A cat should have a good safe hiding place, where it can be left alone until it perceives that things are safe. The cat will usually pick one of its own, but it should have access to its food bowl, water and litter box.
Close room doors when possible to make the cat feel more secure. This is extremely important when company comes to visit or you have a noisy party. Giving a cat as a gift at a noisy party, can freak the cat out, because it violates its comfort factor. Take the time to introduce the cat quietly.
Cats have a social organization that is flexible and allows them to share their territory with other cats. Some times they are accepting of another cat and sometimes they do not – just like people, who have just met someone new. Liking and disliking, on a moments notice. One may want to play and the other may not. Their time as a kitten may determine the likelihood of their desire to be sociable.
When cats have been introduced, they may want to fight to protect territory or establish dominance. Many cat training e-books will tell you NOT TO allow a fight to happen or to continue, if one happens. Make a loud noise, such as yelling HEY. Use a spray bottle with clean water and spray them once or twice from a distance. A clean, well washed out used cleaner bottle will work nicely. They will probably be on the run for their safeafe place before you can get the second spray out.
DO NOT try to physically separate them or in their passion of the moment, they may be aggressive toward you. Be very careful in handling, while a cat is fearful. Their instinct is for self protection. When they have reached their safe hiding place, close the door and give them a time out, just as you would a child.
Be consistent with your water bottle treatment and the time outs. Other punishment may cause further bad behavior and fear. The cat may become aggressive toward you, if it preceives you as a threat. It is NOT acceptable to them, for you to hurt them in your temporary anger. Be loving after the time out, so that the cat knows you love them, but that there are limits to be lived by.
A cat will usually react to fear with 3 Fs – fight – freeze – flee – sometimes loss of bladder/ bowel control. A cat may also puff out its fur, hiss or spit. What causes the fear? Figure it out and fix the problem. Some things that cause fear are a person, children, other animals or loud noises such as a vacuum cleaner being used.
One example we had, was the putting on of a ski hat and sunglasses when Winter came. It freaked out our recently rescued cat the first few times it happened. He had a bad memory?
DO NOT force a fearful thing/ person on them. Introduce at a safe distance – slowly. Feed the cat a treat and praise them for accepting the new thing/ person. Remember that animals have a better inner radar than we do, about people and the vibes they give off. Trust their judgment.
Routines and schedules are important for the well being of your cat. Be as consistent as ppossible. They want the same things to occur each day in the same way and at the same time.
Play time before bed time will help to ensure a good sleep. The more leaping, jumping and running the better. Remember that cats are noctural by nature. They like to play at night and tiring them out will help them sleep. If you sit down to watch a TV program, that you watch each day, the commercial breaks are a great time to brush your cat and play with it.
Author: Judy Jantzen - My husband and I have owned cats for the past 25 years. Currently have a orange tabby and a black short hair. All the cats we have owned have been strays.
For more fabulous articles and some of the finest cat goodies available anywhere including cat food bowls, cat carriers, fur ball remedies, return address labels and cat training e-books check out our web site at: Cat Goodies Finder.com
If you have a cat that is constantly afraid then you need to read the following very carefully.
A cat should have a good safe hiding place, where it can be left alone until it perceives that things are safe. The cat will usually pick one of its own, but it should have access to its food bowl, water and litter box.
Close room doors when possible to make the cat feel more secure. This is extremely important when company comes to visit or you have a noisy party. Giving a cat as a gift at a noisy party, can freak the cat out, because it violates its comfort factor. Take the time to introduce the cat quietly.
Cats have a social organization that is flexible and allows them to share their territory with other cats. Some times they are accepting of another cat and sometimes they do not – just like people, who have just met someone new. Liking and disliking, on a moments notice. One may want to play and the other may not. Their time as a kitten may determine the likelihood of their desire to be sociable.
When cats have been introduced, they may want to fight to protect territory or establish dominance. Many cat training e-books will tell you NOT TO allow a fight to happen or to continue, if one happens. Make a loud noise, such as yelling HEY. Use a spray bottle with clean water and spray them once or twice from a distance. A clean, well washed out used cleaner bottle will work nicely. They will probably be on the run for their safeafe place before you can get the second spray out.
DO NOT try to physically separate them or in their passion of the moment, they may be aggressive toward you. Be very careful in handling, while a cat is fearful. Their instinct is for self protection. When they have reached their safe hiding place, close the door and give them a time out, just as you would a child.
Be consistent with your water bottle treatment and the time outs. Other punishment may cause further bad behavior and fear. The cat may become aggressive toward you, if it preceives you as a threat. It is NOT acceptable to them, for you to hurt them in your temporary anger. Be loving after the time out, so that the cat knows you love them, but that there are limits to be lived by.
A cat will usually react to fear with 3 Fs – fight – freeze – flee – sometimes loss of bladder/ bowel control. A cat may also puff out its fur, hiss or spit. What causes the fear? Figure it out and fix the problem. Some things that cause fear are a person, children, other animals or loud noises such as a vacuum cleaner being used.
One example we had, was the putting on of a ski hat and sunglasses when Winter came. It freaked out our recently rescued cat the first few times it happened. He had a bad memory?
DO NOT force a fearful thing/ person on them. Introduce at a safe distance – slowly. Feed the cat a treat and praise them for accepting the new thing/ person. Remember that animals have a better inner radar than we do, about people and the vibes they give off. Trust their judgment.
Routines and schedules are important for the well being of your cat. Be as consistent as ppossible. They want the same things to occur each day in the same way and at the same time.
Play time before bed time will help to ensure a good sleep. The more leaping, jumping and running the better. Remember that cats are noctural by nature. They like to play at night and tiring them out will help them sleep. If you sit down to watch a TV program, that you watch each day, the commercial breaks are a great time to brush your cat and play with it.
Author: Judy Jantzen - My husband and I have owned cats for the past 25 years. Currently have a orange tabby and a black short hair. All the cats we have owned have been strays.
For more fabulous articles and some of the finest cat goodies available anywhere including cat food bowls, cat carriers, fur ball remedies, return address labels and cat training e-books check out our web site at: Cat Goodies Finder.com
Flushable Cat Litters : The Purrfect Solution In Litter-al Terms
Lee Dobbins asked:
Americans love cats. In fact, these regal creatures have invaded millions of homes across the country and currently number about 60 million. You’ve probably heard that people don’t choose cats – it’s the other way around and with that in mind, we should be honored. It’s just that with that honor and that unique companionship also come certain responsibilities — like cleaning the nasty bits, for example.
The solution? Flushable cat litter – a newer, friendlier alternative to the older, messier litter boxes.
How they work
Forget what you saw in that Ben Stiller-Robert de Niro movie. Cats may be trained to use toilets designed for humans, but very few have gotten around to perfect that flushing mechanism. Besides, training is a two-way process and not all cat owners can train their kitties to do as they wish. Automatic flushable cat litters may hold the answer, without driving a wedge between your cat and yourself.
Automatic flushable cat litters are self-cleaning litter boxes that keep the cat box clean through the use of a raking system that gets rid of the solid waste by pushing it into a waste receptacle. A cat owner can then remove this plastic part and dispose of the waste easily. Some models even have an exit ramp that cleans the cat’s paws to prevent them from leaving track marks.
For the well-cared for cat, there’s LitterFree (TM). Dubbed as the ‘ultimate’ cat litter box, LitterFree is a new design from Pet Food Express and takes cat litter boxes to a whole new level. The product is connected to the water and drainage system and cleans automatically using water to wash the wastes and flush them down the pipes.
It also features a blower that dries the granules to prepare them for the next use. When the manufacturers labeled it ‘flushable’, they meant it. So if you want an innovative, worry-free cat litter box and are willing to spend more, this is for you.
Instead of ordinary litter granules, those that are used in flushable cat litters are dust-free and washable. The problem of unpleasant odor is also corrected by the flushable cat litter’s automatic system of treating the granules with a cleaning solution that both disinfects and deodorizes, ensuring that your kitty’s little toilet is kept clean and fresh.
No simple task
Flushable cat litters are the result of years of design, engineering and testing, as evidenced by the company that produces LitterFree
Americans love cats. In fact, these regal creatures have invaded millions of homes across the country and currently number about 60 million. You’ve probably heard that people don’t choose cats – it’s the other way around and with that in mind, we should be honored. It’s just that with that honor and that unique companionship also come certain responsibilities — like cleaning the nasty bits, for example.
The solution? Flushable cat litter – a newer, friendlier alternative to the older, messier litter boxes.
How they work
Forget what you saw in that Ben Stiller-Robert de Niro movie. Cats may be trained to use toilets designed for humans, but very few have gotten around to perfect that flushing mechanism. Besides, training is a two-way process and not all cat owners can train their kitties to do as they wish. Automatic flushable cat litters may hold the answer, without driving a wedge between your cat and yourself.
Automatic flushable cat litters are self-cleaning litter boxes that keep the cat box clean through the use of a raking system that gets rid of the solid waste by pushing it into a waste receptacle. A cat owner can then remove this plastic part and dispose of the waste easily. Some models even have an exit ramp that cleans the cat’s paws to prevent them from leaving track marks.
For the well-cared for cat, there’s LitterFree (TM). Dubbed as the ‘ultimate’ cat litter box, LitterFree is a new design from Pet Food Express and takes cat litter boxes to a whole new level. The product is connected to the water and drainage system and cleans automatically using water to wash the wastes and flush them down the pipes.
It also features a blower that dries the granules to prepare them for the next use. When the manufacturers labeled it ‘flushable’, they meant it. So if you want an innovative, worry-free cat litter box and are willing to spend more, this is for you.
Instead of ordinary litter granules, those that are used in flushable cat litters are dust-free and washable. The problem of unpleasant odor is also corrected by the flushable cat litter’s automatic system of treating the granules with a cleaning solution that both disinfects and deodorizes, ensuring that your kitty’s little toilet is kept clean and fresh.
No simple task
Flushable cat litters are the result of years of design, engineering and testing, as evidenced by the company that produces LitterFree
The 5 Painful Conditions of Poor Cat Urinary Tract Health
Kate Rieger asked:
Cat urinary tract health care remains one of the top challenges facing caring cat owners. Be on the lookout for the symptoms cats show when they have poor cat urinary tract health or other feline urinary tract disorder(FLUTD).
You or someone you know probably has endured the human version of a urinary tract infection. There is an intense, persistent urge to urinate accompanied by a burning sensation when *********. The urine has a strong odor and there may even be blood in the urine.
In the cat world, these symptoms are very similar except that progressed cases of urinary tract infection in cats can lead to a very painful death. Cats of any age may suffer from the disorder, but older cats are more susceptible. Another similarity to human UTI is that both female and male cats can suffer from poor cat urinary tract health.
In fact, male cats are more susceptible to one condition more so than female cats — urinary stones.
5 Conditions of Poor Cat Urinary Cat Health
1. Incessant licking in the ******* area
2. Blood in the urine
3. Urinary(Bladder) stones also called uroliths
4. Urethral obstruction
5. Death
The only way your cat knows how to deal with an itch or burning sensation in his ******* area is to lick and lick and lick. One clue to a urinary tract infection in cats is that you find urine on the floor, or on tile or in the bathtub — really a blessing because you can see it.
Blood may be visible in the urine. However, if you don’t see any blood that doesn’t mean its not there. A trained eye using a microscope will note if there is blood in the urine.
Urinary stones are a huge reason to alert on changes in your cat’s behavior pointing out urinary tract infections in cats. These stones are mineral crystals formed in the bladder.
When the stones leave the bladder they travel down the urethra tube to exit the body. The stones become lodged in the urethra and block the passage of urine. This problem occurs more in male cats than females as the male urethra tube is narrower. Smaller stones cause a blockage where the female’s wider urethra allows the smaller crystals to pass through.
This is where time becomes a critical factor. If the stones aren’t dislodged naturally or medically, your cat endures a painful death. You have 72 hours from the onset to deal with the stones. Unfortunately, your cat may not display symptoms for 24 to 48 hours.
Causes
It was once thought that certain minerals in cat food contributed to urinary stones. Bacteria can also lead to poor cat urinary tract health.
Today, veterinarians pay more attention to the ph level of the cat’s urine. Ph is the measurement of the acid or alkaline level of the urine. Veterinarians recommend the ph level be around 6.0 to 6.5.
Prevention
Ask your vet to check the ph level in your cat’s urine.
Place clean, fresh water bowls throughout the house and outdoors so that water is very available to your cats. Provide smaller meals more frequently. Minimize major routine changes.
Make no mistake about it, you can help your cat stick to a simple, natural pet care program that promotes vital cat urinary tract health. There are a number of natural remedies available that are blends of herbs tested and proven to treat painful and chronic urinary tract infection in cats.
Cat Care 101
Cristian Stan asked:
It seems that cats have become a common fixture in our household. Many people own one, and in fact, having cats as pets has been a practice for over thousands of years.
Just like dogs, though not as many, cats also have numerous breeds, but the popular ones are Siamese and Persian. If you plan to get one for a pet, there are factors you have to consider, and among these is the cost.
Just like owning any other pet, it will cost some money to own a cat. Of course, you will need to buy food, medicines, clinic visits, and also a litter. The basic essentials you should have are: food plate, water plate, and a litter box. Additionally, cats love to play so buying toys would be recommended. Other paraphernalia you will need: cat collar, bed, carrier, and scratching post.
Feeding Your Cat
The kind of food and frequency of feeding vary with age. When a cat is still very young- a kitten- he will need to be fed several times a day; as he grows older, you can feed him twice daily, or even with one big meal. To be more specific, before he reaches 12 weeks, you will have to feed him at least 4x daily; when he reaches 3-6 months, feeding is lowered down to thrice daily.
Dos and Don’ts
Never feed him food that has been left out for more than half an hour. Canned food can be given, but these can be expensive. For some reason, cats love canned meals but these do not really have any advantage to dental health in the way that dry meals do. So you might want to consider giving him dry food too. When giving dry food, see to it that your cat gets sufficient water intake on a day to day basis. When buying dry food, make sure that you look at the nutritional value it offers and not buy it because it is cheap. Usually, generic food does not contain enough nutrients that your cat needs. Kittens should only be given kitten food, and do not feed yours with adult cat food. Do not keep on giving your cat milk. They love milk but it causes diarrhea. Do make sure to wash his plate everyday. When giving treats, keep it to a minimum as this will make your cat fat. You can feed your cat human food occasionally but still mix it with his regular food. Brush their coat once daily to avoid hairballs, and at the same time, it helps keep their coat shiny and clean. Clean their litter box at least once a week because cats **** it when their litter box is dirty. Take regular visits to his vet, and make sure required shots are given.
Well, if you may have noticed, owning a cat is not always that easy as they require maintenance and care. But cats are wonderful, loving creatures who will keep you company for many, many years. In the end, it is going to be worth it.
Taking Care of an Older Cat
Glenn Cutforth asked:
Cats are not turtles. Okay, I know what you’re thinking, people aren’t turtles, either. However, when you really think about it, people are a lot closer to turtles than cats in the sense that turtles, as well as people, can live to be 100 years or more. Not so for cats. In fact, in human terms, a cat who’s surpassed twelve years would be applying for their old age pension. Certainly cats can live longer than twelve years and, in fact, thanks to many factors, cats really are living much longer these days.
Dedicated care from their human companions plus advances in veterinary medicine are the main reasons. Most experts consider a cat’s “senior years” to begin on her 10th birthday. After this point, the aging process begins to slow in even the most playful feline. Yet, with a little extra attention from her resident human, a cat could enjoy another 5-10 years of life and love.
As with humans, cats often lose the ability to hear as they get older. This often goes unnoticed by their human companion because they think their cat’s lack of response is just typical feline aloofness. Unfortunately, without keen hearing and vision, an older cat becomes more vulnerable to threats from cars and dogs on the street, so it’s probably a good idea to keep an older cat indoors. If she loves the fresh air, then make sure you supervise her in a protected area when she is allowed outdoors.
Even the most easygoing cat can become a finicky eater in her later years. As an older cat’s senses of smell and taste begin to diminish, she becomes less interested in her food. Try adding moist food and warming her meals to amplify the scent and make her dinner more tantalizing.
Also, it’s important to keep fresh water available for your older cat, and to monitor her drinking habits. Her natural thirst drive can fade with age, causing her to become dangerously dehydrated rather quickly. Pay attention to about how much water your cat drinks each day. If the amount suddenly drops, and you know she is not getting water from any other source, you should consider contacting your veterinarian.
Common problems people see their older cats develop include difficulties swallowing due to decreased saliva production, less tolerance to extreme heat and/or cold, gum disease and tooth loss, a change in litter habits, and difficulty sleeping well.
Recent studies have uncovered a problem with potassium balance in many older cats. Poor coat condition, loss of appetite and lethargy have been linked to a mild form of hypokalemia, or low blood potassium. Low blood potassium damages the cat’s kidneys, which, in an older cat, are already weakening. This leads to a vicious cycle because declining kidney function increases the loss of potassium in the blood, which in turn causes further deterioration of the kidneys.
Arthritis and stiffness is fairly common in older cats as well and as it becomes more difficult to move, a geriatric cat spends more time sleeping. If her diet stays the same, she’ll begin to put on a lot of extra weight. This can add to her discomfort which makes her more inclined not to move. Without exercise her muscles will weaken, so it’s important to encourage an older cat to take part in some activity every day. Physical movement will help with digestion and bowel function, as well as keep her sharp mentally.
As a cat gets older, it spends less time grooming itself which may result in her hair becoming dry and matted. Regular grooming is required to keep her coat healthy and beautiful, so it’s best to schedule daily brushing to remove loose hair that can form uncomfortable hairballs in her stomach.
So, as I said, cats aren’t turtles. However, with love and care they can live for fifteen years or more. But remember, just as senior humans require special care, so does your feline friend. Pay attention to their needs and help make them as comfortable as possible.
Cats are not turtles. Okay, I know what you’re thinking, people aren’t turtles, either. However, when you really think about it, people are a lot closer to turtles than cats in the sense that turtles, as well as people, can live to be 100 years or more. Not so for cats. In fact, in human terms, a cat who’s surpassed twelve years would be applying for their old age pension. Certainly cats can live longer than twelve years and, in fact, thanks to many factors, cats really are living much longer these days.
Dedicated care from their human companions plus advances in veterinary medicine are the main reasons. Most experts consider a cat’s “senior years” to begin on her 10th birthday. After this point, the aging process begins to slow in even the most playful feline. Yet, with a little extra attention from her resident human, a cat could enjoy another 5-10 years of life and love.
As with humans, cats often lose the ability to hear as they get older. This often goes unnoticed by their human companion because they think their cat’s lack of response is just typical feline aloofness. Unfortunately, without keen hearing and vision, an older cat becomes more vulnerable to threats from cars and dogs on the street, so it’s probably a good idea to keep an older cat indoors. If she loves the fresh air, then make sure you supervise her in a protected area when she is allowed outdoors.
Even the most easygoing cat can become a finicky eater in her later years. As an older cat’s senses of smell and taste begin to diminish, she becomes less interested in her food. Try adding moist food and warming her meals to amplify the scent and make her dinner more tantalizing.
Also, it’s important to keep fresh water available for your older cat, and to monitor her drinking habits. Her natural thirst drive can fade with age, causing her to become dangerously dehydrated rather quickly. Pay attention to about how much water your cat drinks each day. If the amount suddenly drops, and you know she is not getting water from any other source, you should consider contacting your veterinarian.
Common problems people see their older cats develop include difficulties swallowing due to decreased saliva production, less tolerance to extreme heat and/or cold, gum disease and tooth loss, a change in litter habits, and difficulty sleeping well.
Recent studies have uncovered a problem with potassium balance in many older cats. Poor coat condition, loss of appetite and lethargy have been linked to a mild form of hypokalemia, or low blood potassium. Low blood potassium damages the cat’s kidneys, which, in an older cat, are already weakening. This leads to a vicious cycle because declining kidney function increases the loss of potassium in the blood, which in turn causes further deterioration of the kidneys.
Arthritis and stiffness is fairly common in older cats as well and as it becomes more difficult to move, a geriatric cat spends more time sleeping. If her diet stays the same, she’ll begin to put on a lot of extra weight. This can add to her discomfort which makes her more inclined not to move. Without exercise her muscles will weaken, so it’s important to encourage an older cat to take part in some activity every day. Physical movement will help with digestion and bowel function, as well as keep her sharp mentally.
As a cat gets older, it spends less time grooming itself which may result in her hair becoming dry and matted. Regular grooming is required to keep her coat healthy and beautiful, so it’s best to schedule daily brushing to remove loose hair that can form uncomfortable hairballs in her stomach.
So, as I said, cats aren’t turtles. However, with love and care they can live for fifteen years or more. But remember, just as senior humans require special care, so does your feline friend. Pay attention to their needs and help make them as comfortable as possible.
Feline Health: Caring for Your New Kitten – What’s First?
Michael D. Rosenthal asked:
When it comes to household pets, there are very few that bring as much excitement and joy than bringing home a new kitten. Just remember that you will be responsible for this pet’s care and health for an average of 10-15 years. Suffice it to say, felines make for very special and unique pets and their uniqueness is the key to knowing how to care for them properly. Their needs are the key to working with your veterinarian so that your new kitten will have the best care possible and be a member of your family for years to come.
Initially, when you first bring the new kitten into your home, there are issues that need to be addressed immediately. Obviously, if you have decided to have a cat for a pet, you have accepted the responsibilities of providing the following:
· food
· grooming
· proper veterinary care
· shelter
And let’s not forget lots of TLC and affection. In return for all the love, money, and time that we spend on them and with them, we are rewarded with a content companion that is affectionate and healthy.
The Adjustment Period
First and foremost, you’ll need to put in some due diligence as you prepare your home for the new family member. Addressing the kitten’s needs is paramount because they will first require your patience as they adjust to their new surroundings. By the same token, you will need to adjust to them now being a family member. Additionally, if you have children and other pets in your home, there will most likely be some adjustment issues in those arenas as well.
It is necessary that you ease the kitten through this adjustment period, especially when there are young children around, as well as other pets. In addition to supervising your children when they are playing with the new kitten, you should teach them how to handle the kitten with the utmost care and respect.
The Kitten’s Basic Needs
There are certain basic resources that the new kitten will need specifically, food and water. Initially, it is a good idea to provide them with their own private food and water bowls. Once they have integrated well with the other pets, a single feeding and watering station should be the norm. However, until that time arises, keeping them separated from other animals in the house (especially dogs) is the best idea.
If you haven’t chosen a veterinarian, then do it now. Besides the medical issues, your veterinarian will be able to recommend a proper diet for the kitten as well. Where the kitten’s food and water are concerned, it is imperative that they have water at all times and that you clean their food and water bowls regularly and thoroughly.
The next order of business is their litter box. Make sure that it is situated in a quiet yet easily accessible location and that it is not too tall for them to get in and out of. Seeing as how there are a multitude of choices in the marketplace, you may find this somewhat challenging. Just remember that cats normally prefer very fine-grained litter when selecting one for your kitten. Also, the clumping kinds will make your job of cleaning out the litter box on a daily basis a lot easier. Additionally, the box should be completely, disinfected, emptied, and refilled with fresh litter on a regular basis.
When it comes to household pets, there are very few that bring as much excitement and joy than bringing home a new kitten. Just remember that you will be responsible for this pet’s care and health for an average of 10-15 years. Suffice it to say, felines make for very special and unique pets and their uniqueness is the key to knowing how to care for them properly. Their needs are the key to working with your veterinarian so that your new kitten will have the best care possible and be a member of your family for years to come.
Initially, when you first bring the new kitten into your home, there are issues that need to be addressed immediately. Obviously, if you have decided to have a cat for a pet, you have accepted the responsibilities of providing the following:
· food
· grooming
· proper veterinary care
· shelter
And let’s not forget lots of TLC and affection. In return for all the love, money, and time that we spend on them and with them, we are rewarded with a content companion that is affectionate and healthy.
The Adjustment Period
First and foremost, you’ll need to put in some due diligence as you prepare your home for the new family member. Addressing the kitten’s needs is paramount because they will first require your patience as they adjust to their new surroundings. By the same token, you will need to adjust to them now being a family member. Additionally, if you have children and other pets in your home, there will most likely be some adjustment issues in those arenas as well.
It is necessary that you ease the kitten through this adjustment period, especially when there are young children around, as well as other pets. In addition to supervising your children when they are playing with the new kitten, you should teach them how to handle the kitten with the utmost care and respect.
The Kitten’s Basic Needs
There are certain basic resources that the new kitten will need specifically, food and water. Initially, it is a good idea to provide them with their own private food and water bowls. Once they have integrated well with the other pets, a single feeding and watering station should be the norm. However, until that time arises, keeping them separated from other animals in the house (especially dogs) is the best idea.
If you haven’t chosen a veterinarian, then do it now. Besides the medical issues, your veterinarian will be able to recommend a proper diet for the kitten as well. Where the kitten’s food and water are concerned, it is imperative that they have water at all times and that you clean their food and water bowls regularly and thoroughly.
The next order of business is their litter box. Make sure that it is situated in a quiet yet easily accessible location and that it is not too tall for them to get in and out of. Seeing as how there are a multitude of choices in the marketplace, you may find this somewhat challenging. Just remember that cats normally prefer very fine-grained litter when selecting one for your kitten. Also, the clumping kinds will make your job of cleaning out the litter box on a daily basis a lot easier. Additionally, the box should be completely, disinfected, emptied, and refilled with fresh litter on a regular basis.
Taking Care of Cats
Patricia Reed asked:
Cats are proving to be one of the most popular pets you can own. They are a domesticated animal that date back around 8,000 years and beyond. There are several different breeds of this animal with the most popular being Siamese and Persian. Like any other pet, including dogs, cats can cost money to take care of properly.
You need to think about the costs associated with keeping a cat. Obviously you will need food and
you will need to consider the costs of a veterinarian. You will also need litter for the litter box, which can get quite expensive as the years go by. Your cat will need a food dish and a water dish. You should also get your cat some toys as well, such as a scratching post, cat toys, pet carrier and a bed. An ID collar is a good idea also, just in case your cat gets lost.
The age of your cat will influence the feeding of your pet. Older cats require two small meals or one large meal for the day. Kittens, on the other hand, require several feedings a day until they get around the age of 12 weeks old. At three to six months of age, cats need to be fed three times a day. Canned food is good for cats, although any food that has been left out longer than 30 minutes needs to be thrown out. Canned food gets expensive very fast and you should always keep in mind that some may need to be thrown away when you buy it. Cats love canned food, although it doesn’t have any benefits to their dental health like dry food does.
An alternative to canned food is dry food. You can leave a supply out for your pet. When you give your cat dry food, you should always make sure that he has enough water. Dry food costs less than canned food, and it can also help to prevent the buildup of tartar on the cat’s teeth. When you buy dry food, you should always look in terms of health and benefits and stay away from generic food. Even though generic food may be cheaper, it may not offer the nutrients your cat needs.
If you have a kitten, you should only give him food designed for kittens. you will also need to clean and refill his water dish every day. You should avoid giving kittens and cats cows milk, even though they really like it. It can cause diarrhea. Treats are fine on occasions, but too many of them can cause your cat to get fat. Feeding your kitten human food is good on occasion, although you may have to mix it with cat food.
Cats stay fairly clean by themselves. You will need to give them a brushing at least once a day. You don’t need to bathe them very often. Brushing reduces the risk of hairballs and keeps your cat’s coat nice and clean. If you keep your cat indoors, you will need to have a litter box in the area that is easy for the cat to access. You should scoop it on a daily basis and clean it out once a week. Cats do not like to use dirty litter and will scratch it out onto your floor. They want it nice and clean.
Cats do require some work, but they are great pets that will provide you years and years of
companionship. As long as you take car of your pet, take them to the vet for checkups and generally love them, they should remain healthy and happy pets. A healthy and happy pet makes for a healthy and happy owner. They will get sick from time to time and knowing how to care for them will make a lot of difference.
Cats are proving to be one of the most popular pets you can own. They are a domesticated animal that date back around 8,000 years and beyond. There are several different breeds of this animal with the most popular being Siamese and Persian. Like any other pet, including dogs, cats can cost money to take care of properly.
You need to think about the costs associated with keeping a cat. Obviously you will need food and
you will need to consider the costs of a veterinarian. You will also need litter for the litter box, which can get quite expensive as the years go by. Your cat will need a food dish and a water dish. You should also get your cat some toys as well, such as a scratching post, cat toys, pet carrier and a bed. An ID collar is a good idea also, just in case your cat gets lost.
The age of your cat will influence the feeding of your pet. Older cats require two small meals or one large meal for the day. Kittens, on the other hand, require several feedings a day until they get around the age of 12 weeks old. At three to six months of age, cats need to be fed three times a day. Canned food is good for cats, although any food that has been left out longer than 30 minutes needs to be thrown out. Canned food gets expensive very fast and you should always keep in mind that some may need to be thrown away when you buy it. Cats love canned food, although it doesn’t have any benefits to their dental health like dry food does.
An alternative to canned food is dry food. You can leave a supply out for your pet. When you give your cat dry food, you should always make sure that he has enough water. Dry food costs less than canned food, and it can also help to prevent the buildup of tartar on the cat’s teeth. When you buy dry food, you should always look in terms of health and benefits and stay away from generic food. Even though generic food may be cheaper, it may not offer the nutrients your cat needs.
If you have a kitten, you should only give him food designed for kittens. you will also need to clean and refill his water dish every day. You should avoid giving kittens and cats cows milk, even though they really like it. It can cause diarrhea. Treats are fine on occasions, but too many of them can cause your cat to get fat. Feeding your kitten human food is good on occasion, although you may have to mix it with cat food.
Cats stay fairly clean by themselves. You will need to give them a brushing at least once a day. You don’t need to bathe them very often. Brushing reduces the risk of hairballs and keeps your cat’s coat nice and clean. If you keep your cat indoors, you will need to have a litter box in the area that is easy for the cat to access. You should scoop it on a daily basis and clean it out once a week. Cats do not like to use dirty litter and will scratch it out onto your floor. They want it nice and clean.
Cats do require some work, but they are great pets that will provide you years and years of
companionship. As long as you take car of your pet, take them to the vet for checkups and generally love them, they should remain healthy and happy pets. A healthy and happy pet makes for a healthy and happy owner. They will get sick from time to time and knowing how to care for them will make a lot of difference.
